What Spending £400 on A Custom vs. a High-Street Suit Gets You
Have you ever wondered what the differences are between buying a suit from a high street brand and buying a made-to-measure suit? Well below we discuss the various differences between the two. We will compare the fit, fabric, construction and customisation options. So make sure to read on to find out where to spend your hard earned money.
The fit of your clothes can either make you feel like the man or feel totally insecure. A well fitting suit has the ability to turn any man into a gentleman. Made-to-measure suits are made after taking 25 different measurements in order to make sure the suit fits you perfectly. Off the rack suits are made for the general population and only fit a few people well.
The shoulder is the most important part of the jacket. The slope, width and whether the shoulder sits forward or backwards determine how well the jacket sits. While many things can be altered, the shoulder shape needs to be taken into account when the suit pattern is drafted, as alterations to the shoulders are difficult, costly, and sometimes not even possible. Purchasing a tailored suit takes your personal shoulder shape into account and ensures that the suit fits you like a glove. With an off the rack suit you will have a more difficult time to find a jacket that fits you perfectly, and you will often end up with ugly creases behind your neck, or on the front or back of the shoulders.
Furthermore, off-the-rack suits often come as a set of jacket & trousers. While the jacket might fit you reasonably well, it doesn’t mean that the corresponding trousers will fit you well too and vice versa. This problem doesn’t exist when you are opting for a made-to-measure garment as jacket and trousers are made from scratch based on your personal measurements.
Read on to find out about the importance of a suits construction and what you get from high street brands.
Construction & Materials
Suits jackets can be constructed in different ways. Canvas is the interlayer that gives a jacket front its shape and ensures that the jacket drapes nicely along your contours. Different ways to construct the jacket are with a full canvas, a half canvas, or a fully fused canvas. The latter being the cheapest option as instead of the animal hair canvas, a fusible interlining is stuck to the jacket’s wool shell.
A full canvas lining lasts longer and provides a sharp refined look that defines the gentleman.
A compromise between the best of both worlds is the half-canvas. The important parts which are chest and lapel area are canvassed providing longevity and natural drape whilst the waist down is fused providing cost savings.
The majority of off the rack suits under £800 (i.e. most major brands) are fully fused. For such suits, you are really paying a premium for the brands and not for the actual garment quality. A comparable suit from a made-to-measure brand such as Edit Suits Co. offers half canvassed suits from £449. There really is no comparison; you get a better quality suit for the same if not less money.
The other important point to consider is the material itself. There is a lot to be said for choosing a cloth as heavy as you can bear. A tailor will tell you this because it helps with the way the suit drapes and ultimately looks. Your suit should be made from 100% wool with a thread count of at least S100. The number refers to the number of times that the wool has been twisted when it is made. The higher the number, the finer and lighter the cloth will be. When opting for a custom suit you have the freedom to choose amongst hundreds of fabrics and select the exact one that suits your needs, without being restricted by a limited collection.
Customisation & Personalisation
Rather than having to take what is on offer, you can get exactly what you want when buying a made-to-measure suit; lapel, vents, pockets, buttons, lining etc.
What you get for £400 from a high street brand cannot compare with a made-to-measure suit like the ones from Edit Suits Co. Limited overheads and less inventory risk allow made-to-measure brands to offer a superior product that sells at the same price as a branded off-the-rack suit. There aren’t many situations where paying less for something can give you a better product. Congratulations, you found one!