Here’s a guide to ensuring your suit looks sharp. Many people mistakenly believe that knowing their size is enough to guarantee a good fit, but it’s not that straightforward. Suits come in various cuts, constructions, and styles, so there isn't a one-size-fits-all solution for every body shape. This can make finding the right suit quite challenging!
That’s where Edit Suits Co. comes in. We take the hassle out of finding the perfect fit by crafting suits to your exact measurements with meticulous attention to detail.
In the meantime, here’s a basic guide to checking the crucial fit of your suit, starting with the jacket.
Shoulder line:
Suit shoulder finishes come in a range of finishes, from padded, to soft to La Spalla Camicia. Whatever your preferred option, the key is the fit. The end of the shoulder pad should finish neatly in line with the end of your body’s shoulder. This will allow the arm to fill out the top of the sleeve which should drape smoothly in a straight line. Too tight and the arm will stretch the top of the sleeve, too big and the shoulders will hang unnaturally with an unsightly hole appearing in the void.
Lapels:
Lapels should sit flat against the chest. A gap between the chest and the lapels indicates the jacket is too big. If the chest panels are too small, the lapels will bow. The temptation of many is to go too tight – remember, tight is not always right!
Sleeve & Jacket Length:
A couple of schools of thought available on these very personal preferences. When it comes to sleeves, as a general rule, always flash a bit of your shirt cuff when your arms are in a relaxed position – ideally about an inch. A touch of colour beneath the end of the jacket cuff always helps sharpen your look.
On jacket lengths, British traditionalists tend towards a longer finish; clenching the fist and lining up the jacket with the knuckles gives a preferred length. This works particularly well with a more traditionally styled suit. The Italians tend towards a much shorter length teamed with a slimmer suit giving a more elegant line to the leg. As a general rule, by today’s standards, look to line up the bottom of the jacket with the bottom of the crotch of your trousers, with enough length in the back to just about cover your trouser seat – with this rule, you won’t go wrong!
Closure:
You should always be able to button your jacket. Ideally, look for a gap of an inch to an inch and a half from the belly to the closure. Too tight and the button will pull and create an unsightly crease in the shape of an X in the front of the jacket. Too loose and your jacket will lose shape and silhouette. You could also be accused of smuggling. The button should ideally sit around the widest part of your body to allow the rest of the jacket to fall naturally into place.
Seem a lot to think about? Remember, these are just the basics! Some problems can result from differing postures – but why retrain your posture? Get your suit to do the hard work! If you want the perfectly fitting suit, get in touch, and let our professional outfitters advise you.
Next time……Don’t let your trousers let you down…..a look into the perfectly fitting trousers.
Edit Suits Co. is a tailored menswear company based in London, Singapore, Birmingham, Manchester and Leeds.
We do high-quality made-to-measure menswear for the price of a ready-made suit.
Book your appointment for a personal 1 to 1 styling consultation.